Madagascar Wildlife Adventure 1

Featured Image: Baobabs in Classic Dry Baobab Forest, Mosa Reserve near Ifaty

  Breadtag Sagas ©: Author Tony,  23 February 2025

Madagascar Wildlife Adventure, Part 1

Ranamofana, Isalo, Ifaty

Why go to Madagascar? Look at any map of Africa and the eye is drawn to down south to this big island off the east coast, Madagascar. What is it?

Geographic isolation and size are the key to an amazing variety of habitat and wildlife not found anywhere else. Lemurs, chameleons and endemic birds, combined with unusual endemic plants are one’s first impression.

Young Ring-tail Lemur Playing

Madagascar is also the major producer of the spice Vanilla.

Main Points

• Basic Information (island biogeography, geography, history)
• Our Trip in Outline
• Destinations, Parks and Reserves, Wildlife
  • Ranamofana
  • d’Ankazomivada community reserve
  • Isalo
  • Zombitse National Park
  • Arboretum d’Antsokay
  • Ifaty

Male Silver Widow Dragonfly on Rock

1 Basic Information about Madagascar

1.1 Island Biogeography

I was a zoologist back in the day. I read RH MacArthur and EO Wilson The Theory of Island Biogeography 1967, while at university and a desire to visit Madagascar was a lifelong ambition.

Not counting Australia, Madagascar is the fourth largest island on the planet following Greenland, New Guinea and Borneo, and it is the most interesting from the viewpoint of island biogeography.

iPhone Photo, Female Blue-legged Chameleon, Ranomafana National Park

I suspect Darwin’s finches are still on the syllabus at high school as the classic example of adaptive radiation. Everybody and their dog seem to want to go to the Galapagos Islands and many of my friends have. However, Madagascar is more interesting from a biological perspective, if somewhat harder to access.

Adaptation among the Vangas of Madagascar is a mid-boggling example of avian adaptive radiation, extreme in comparison with Darwin’s finches.

There are about 250-300 species of birds in Madagascar (some only visitors) of which 117 species are endemic.

Mongoose Like, Ring-tailed Vontsira, Ranomafana National Park

The number of species of lemurs recognised has increased markedly in recent years (mainly due to DNA studies) from around 33 species in 1994 to over a hundred today. This is not surprising as many lemur species ‘look alike’, except to themselves.

There are around 100 chameleon species and 80 gekko species and many more unique plants and animals.

Madagascar is a mosaic of diverse habitats and of wildlife arrivals and extinctions. Whilst difficult for wildlife to get to even from Africa, because of winds and currents, it is not nearly as impossibly isolated as Australia.

Madagascar Ground Gekko, Mosa Reserve near Ifaty

1.2 Geography and Environment

Madagascar is located 400 km off the east coast of Africa and covers an area of over 580,000 sq km. The island’s geography is characterised by a mountainous spine running north to south, with the highest peak, Maromokotro, reaching 2,876 meters. This central highland region sharply descends to the east, forming steep coastal plains, while the western side slopes more gently towards the Mozambique Channel.

Sunset Vista, Jardin du Roy Hotel Grounds, Isalo

Madagascar’s diverse landscape includes lush rainforests, dry deserts, and grassy plains, with coral reefs and mangrove forests along its coastlines.

The island’s climate varies significantly, with the eastern coast receiving abundant rainfall (over 2000 mm annually), while the southern region experiences a long dry season with minimal precipitation.

Madagascar’s unique geography and isolation have led to the evolution of distinctive flora and fauna, making it a biodiversity hotspot.

iPhone Photo, Unknown Chrysalis, Zombitse National Park

1.3 History

Madagascar’s history is a rich tapestry of diverse influences and migrations. The island was one of the last major landmasses on Earth to be settled by humans, with the first settlers arriving around 350-550 CE. These early inhabitants were of Austronesian origin, likely from Indonesia. Over the next millennium, Madagascar saw waves of settlers from various origins, primarily Austronesian and Bantu.

Puzzled Woman in Central Madagascar Street Scene

The Malagasy population is divided into approximately 20 ethnic groups, with the Merina being the largest and most dominant. These groups developed distinct identities and cultures over time, with some forming powerful kingdoms that shaped the island’s history. See Mada Magazine for more detail on the ethnic groups.

From the 16th to the 18th centuries, Madagascar became an important trading hub, with Arab, Portuguese, and French traders establishing posts on the island. The Merina kingdom, which emerged in the central highlands, grew to dominate much of the island by the 18th century.

Cattle on the Road, in Rural Madagascar

French colonisation began in 1883, culminating in full annexation by 1896. The colonial period brought significant changes, including the abolition of slavery and introduction of basic services, but also imposed significant restrictions on local populations. A nationalist movement grew during this time, leading to a major uprising in 1947 and ultimately resulting in Madagascar gaining independence in 1960.

Post-colonial Madagascar has experienced political instability, including military coups, disputed elections, and periods of unrest. Government corruption is rife. France continued to exert significant political and economic influence over Madagascar for more than a decade after independence and to a limited extent still does.

Madagascar is the fifth poorest country in the world. One educated Malagasy told us that the current president is endeavouring to make Madagascar number one!

Ubiquitous Telecom Cash Booth

The population of Madagascar is around 30 million. It was 4 million in 1950, 15 million in 2000 and 20 million in 2010. Population is a major cause of increasing poverty and habitat destruction.

2 Our Tour with Naturetrek

2.1 Overview

Our adventure to Madagascar with Naturetrek was a plan hatched in 2020. Life, as it often does, threw us curveballs: Covid, aging parents, and various health concerns repeatedly pushed back our departure. After five years of anticipation, stepping onto Malagasy soil in October 2024 felt like a privilege.

Our overseas journey began with a flight from Perth to Mauritius, where we spent four days before continuing to Madagascar. Meanwhile, our tour leader and fellow travellers embarked from London, connecting through Addis Ababa.

Bright-eyed Frog, Ranomafana National Park

The core of our adventure was a 23-day tour with Naturetrek UK. We were fortunate to have Ben Chapple, a PhD candidate specialising in African Hunting Dogs, as our tour leader. Alongside him was Claude Rambeloson, an exceptionally experienced local guide of over 20 years working with Naturetrek. The in-depth knowledge of both were instrumental in making the trip unforgettable.

Similarly, as with most bird and nature tours, we had local guides at each National Park and Reserve. They were all excellent and are mandatory in Madagascar, which ensures to some extent that money flows back into the communities involved.

Milne-Edwards Sifaka, Ranomafana National Park

The Group

Our group of twelve plus two was a mix of birders, photographers, and biologists. We had dragonfly and butterfly aficionados, a “snake person”, a botanist, and others with a general passion for wildlife. This diverse range of expertise added to the learning and nuance of the tour.

Travel

Five internal flights minimised the time we spent on Madagascar’s appalling national highways and other roads.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Red-bellied Lemur, Ranomafana National Park

Other adventure tours endure much longer days of driving than we did, but one does have to put up with some long drives to see the country. However, using flights maximised viewing over driving.

Intensity

Nevertheless the trip was arduous and hot at times. One has to work hard to see the wildlife in Madagascar, unlike Africa. We arose regularly from 4.30 to 6.30 am. Denise estimated that we walked about 6 hours per day on average (though slowly) and others that we walked around one hundred miles.

A Gentler Pace

Other more comfortable options for those opposed to adventure travel, include flights to three destinations with minor road travel (see Further Information below).

2.2 A Bump in the Road, My Mishap

Unfortunately, on day eight, the bus hit an unmarked speed hump at speed while I was in the back. In Antananarivo three days later, a CT scan revealed a compression fracture of the T12 vertebra. The doctor stressed it wasn’t dangerous.

I spent the rest of the trip with spinal restraint belt (worn 24 h) and strong muscle relaxant drugs, but I only missed two walks.

iPhone Photo, Parson’s Chameleon, Ranomafana National Park

Surprisingly, my back was worse when I got back home. Recuperation has been slow and difficult. I wouldn’t wish it on anyone.

Ranamofana, Isalo, Ifaty

3 Tour, Reserves and Location

3.1 Overview

Our tour began and ended in Antananarivo, the capital (often called Tana). Located in the central highlands, Tana sits about one-third of the way down the island from the north. We started with a long bus ride to Toliara (Ifaty) on the west coast.

Madagascar Airlines operates only six planes, so all flights go through Antananarivo, which can be frustrating.

Photo by Ben Chapple, Subdesert Mesite, Reniala Forest Reserve near Ifaty

We flew back from Toliara and then made trips between Antananarivo and Majunga (Ankarafantsika) in the mid-west, as well as to Taolagnaro (Berenty) in the far south. In total, we took five domestic flights. The unfamiliar places will gradually become clearer below.

Part 1 covers the road trip down the island to Ifaty and the first four major national parks and reserves and some subsidiary ones.

Part 2 will detail three more national parks and reserves in the west, south and towards the east coast.

3.2 National Parks and Reserves

3.3 Location

Madagascar Map of our trip prepared by Pam Taylor

The map shows the main places mentioned that we visited.

4 The Long Drive South and West

4.1 Antsirabe to Ranamofana (Days 4-6)

The Trip

Antsirabe was our first night stop out of Tana. Next day our main destination was Ranamofana National Park.

The Reserve

d’Ankazomivada Community Reserve (Temperate Central Highlands)

We stopped for lunch at the tiny roadside community reserve of d’Ankazomivada, which protects a remnant patch of native forest, as well as a wetland.

Jewel Chameleon, Ankazomivada Community Reserve

The Wildlife

Highlights included the aptly named Jewel Chameleon and Madagascar Snipe. We spotted distant raptors, including a scarce endemic Madagascar Harrier and a pair of Madagascar Buzzards. More exciting was our first lemur, an inquisitive male Red-fronted Brown Lemur, which approached us during lunch.

Our First Lemur

The Reserve

Ranamofana National Park (Rainforest)

A beautiful montaine rainforest park Ranomafana National Park was established in 1991 to protect the Golden (now Greater) Bamboo Lemur. On our full day we embarked on steep (scrambling) trails in two areas of the rainforest.

In the Ranomafana Rainforest, Claude Explaining Something

The Wildlife

Arriving at Ranomafana in drizzle and darkness, the Rufous Mouse Lemur, nightly fed by guides, was a fantastic introduction. We also saw a Big-nosed Chameleon.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Rufous Mouse Lemur, Ranomafana National Park

The next day our first sighting was the Satanic Leaf-tailed Gecko, a master of camouflage. We also saw the last Greater Bamboo Lemur, which the National Park was set-up to preserve. For some reason the habitat hasn’t sustained. them. (They exist elsewhere.)

Photo by Sandra Neely, Greater Bamboo Lemur, Ranomafana National Park

We observed Madagascar’s iconic vangas: Hook-billed (on nest), Tylas, Crossley’s, and the scarce Pollen’s Vanga. Plus, two ground rollers: a fleeting Pitta-like Ground Roller and a close-up Scaly Ground Roller.

Scaly Ground Roller, Ranomafana National Park

We encountered Red-bellied Lemurs, feeding acrobatically, and excitedly, a Ring-tailed Vontsira. Sandra was thrilled by a female, then a male, Giraffe-necked Weevil. These herbivores favour one plant. The male’s neck, three times longer than the female’s, helps in mating battles but not in nest-building or leaf rolling, which the female is expert at.

Male Giraffe Weevil in Habitat, Ranomafana National Park

Later, we encountered a troop of Milne-Edwards’s Sifakas, including a mother and baby. This critically endangered lemur is the third largest lemur.

We briefly glimpsed a Small-toothed Sportive Lemur and spotted new birds: Madagascar Cuckooshrike, Grey-crowned Tetraka, and Madagascar Brush Warbler. Near a stream, we found exquisite Pandanus Frogs, Blue-legged Chameleons, and a Major’s Bent-winged Bats cave roost.

iPhone Photo, Male Blue-legged Chameleon

A Long Fascinating Drive through the Highlands

4.2 Ranomafana to Isalo (Days 6-8)

The Trip

After a leisurely morning start at Ranomafana, we enjoyed a long lunch stop at Anja Community Reserve and arrived at the gorgeous Jardin du Roy Hotel just after sunset.

Oustalet’s Chameleon mimicking branch, Anja Community Reserve

The Reserve

Anja Community Reserve

Anja Community Reserve, a tiny 30-hectare forest fragment in the Central Highlands, lies beneath Anja’s towering granite inselbergs.

Ring-tailed Lemur Navigating, Anja Community Reserve

The Wildlife

Anja Community Reserve, though small, hosts a thriving Ring-tailed Lemur population in splendid condition. Seemingly oblivious to our presence they fed and interacted. Many of the females had tiny babies.

Ring-tailed Lemur suckling baby, Anja Community Reserve

The reserve abounds with Oustalet’s Chameleons. These large, endemic chameleons are known for their size and colour-changing abilities.

The Trip

The great sandstone ramparts of Isalo National Park appeared at dusk. The Jardin du Roy Hotel was special, its grounds extensive and excellent for exploring and bird watching. The following day, we departed at 7.30 am for Isalo National Park’s Namaza area.

The Reserve

Namaza, Isalo National Park

This spectacular spot features deciduous forest enclosed by gradually narrowing sandstone canyon walls. As the morning progressed, the heat became oppressive for some.

Plataspid Shield, Bugs on Tree Isalo-Mimaza National Park

The Wildlife

Near the canyon entrance, we spotted Broad-billed Roller, Madagascar Coucal, Olive Bee-eater, and various invertebrates like a Snout Bug, Net-throwing Spider, Silver Widow, and Madagascar Emperor dragonflies.

White-browed Owl Yawning, Isalo-Mimaza National Park

Deeper in, we encountered numerous owls: Torotoroka Scops, White-browed, and Madagascar Long-eared, including juveniles.

Juvenile Madagascar Long-eared Owl, Isalo-Mimaza National ParkNational Park

At the shady picnic area, cooks prepared exciting barbecue lunches, sadly not for us. A Ring-tailed Lemur troop displayed intriguing behaviours, and we observed a male Benson’s Forest Rock Thrush.

Ring-tailed Lemur, Isalo-Mimaza National Park

The Trip

The Hotel Grounds

Olive Bee-eater, Hotel Grounds, Isalo

After lunch at Jardin du Roy, we swam in the pool. Our evening stroll found Madagascar Hoopoe, Grey-headed Lovebirds, Madagascar Turtle Dove, numerous bee-eaters, and Dumeril’s Madagascar Swift (a lizard). The sunset view from a nearby canyon was spectacular, showcasing unusual sandstone shapes.

iPhone Photo by Ben Chapple, Team at Sunset View Point, Jardin du Roy Hotel Grounds, Isalo

Another Slightly Long and for Me Unpleasant Drive

4.3 Isalo to Ifaty (Days 8-10)

The Trip

Rising at 04:00, we arrived at Zombitse National Park early morning. A long drive on terrible roads (and my accident) led to lunch at the lovely Arboretum d’Antsokay near Toliara.

We then reached our accommodation, Le Paradisier Hotel, near Ifaty village. This lovely hotel featured an infinity pool and beach hut-style rooms. I missed the morning walk but enjoyed the pool, watching dozens of Olive Bee-eaters diving to drink, bathe, and catch insects.

The road outside Zombitse National Park

The Reserve

Zombitse National Park

Zombitse National Park a pocket of forest, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, important for a few endemic species found nowhere else. It was a lovely place to walk around in the early morning.

Scops Owl, Zombitse National Park

The Wildlife

An obliging male Frances’s Sparrowhawk circled and perched upon arrival.

We quickly found Verreaux’s Sifakas, including a mother with infant. Our targets, the rare Zombitse Sportive Lemur and Appert’s Tetraka (a Madagascar warbler), both found nowhere else, were spotted.

Zombitse Sportive Lemur

We also saw Blue Vanga, a glimpse of Coquerel’s Coua, and more obliging Crested and Giant Couas.

At the park entrance over breakfast, we were entertained by a glossy male Cuckoo Roller exhibiting his full looping display flight, continuously.

Coquerel’s Coua

The Reserve

Arboretum d’Antsokay

Established by a Swiss Botanist in 1980 Arboretum d’Antsokay is essentially a distillation of the entire spiny forest with over 900 species of plants.

The Wildlife

We re-acquainted ourselves with several bird species, found our first Sakalava Weavers, Madagascar Mannikin, and a delightfully obliging white-phase Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher. More wonderful was a tiny Grey-brown Mouse Lemur, tentatively poking its minuscule face from a pipe.

Grey-brown Mouse Lemur

The Reserve

Ifaty

Ifaty is primarily known for its Baobab and spiny forests on flat sandy soils.

Cuvier’s Madagascar Swift (Collared iguanid lizard)

The Wildlife

Le Paradisier Hotel, Ifaty

A night walk revealed more Grey-brown Mouse Lemurs, a Warty Chameleon, and swooping Madagascar Nightjars. During the day, we observed Three-eyed Lizards and Cuvier’s Madagascar Swift (Collared iguanid lizard), along with several birds, including Whimbrel and Common Ringed Plover on the beach.

Three-eyed Madagascan Iguana

Reniala Forest Reserve

I missed the morning spiny forest walk due to injury, one of only two I missed. The group saw seven Subdesert Mesite in dramatic poses on a low branch and the amazing Long-tailed Ground Roller. The impressive supporting cast included a Thamnornis Warbler, Chabert’s and Hook-billed Vangas, three coua species, Subdesert Brush Warbler, Stripe-throated Jery, and Standing’s Day Gecko.

Mosa Reserve

Our evening walk through the African village led to Mosa Reserve. Highlights included a rare sighting of Petter’s (Ifaty) Sportive Lemur, thrilling even our experienced guide Claude (who hadn’t seen one here). We also spotted a Grey-brown Mouse Lemur, Warty and critically endangered Antimena Chameleons, Madagascar Ground Gecko, and an elegant Dumeril’s Ground Boa. Some appreciated the Madagascar Hissing Cockroach. The weirdest encounter was a Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec, Mosa Reserve near Ifaty

Key Words: Madagascar, travel, Africa, environment, wildlife, geographic isolation, island biogeography, adaptive radiation, lemur, chameleon, birds, endemic, plants, Ring-tail Lemur, Ranamofana National Park, d’Ankazomivada community reserve, Isalo, Zombitse National Park, Arboretum d’Antsokay, Ifaty, dragonfly, gekko, rainforest, desert, rainfall, biodiversity hotspot, Austronesian, Bantu, Malagasy, Naturetrek, Antananarivo, raptor, mouse lemur, brown lemur, sifaka, dancing lemur, dwarf lemur, sportive lemur, vanga, ground roller, baobab, spiny forest.

Further Information

Tour Information

We travelled with Naturetrek UK on their Best of Madagascar Tour and found the tour and the two trip leaders Ben Chapple, Claude Rambeloson and the whole Naturetrek team to be extremely accommodating and professional. They were happy to keep us on their tour list year after year for 5 years. We didn’t ask for our deposit back during Covid-19 because we knew how difficult times were for similar tour companies. Naturetrek are an excellent international wildlife tour company and offer wildlife tours all around the world.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Standing’s Day Gekko, Reniala Forest Reserve near Ifaty

A Gentler Approach to Madagascar

Since returning from Madagascar, we’ve found some friends have been turned off by the terrible roads and the arduousness in accessing the wildlife. This doesn’t have to be.

A more comfortable option for those opposed to adventure travel, includes flights to three destinations with only minor road travel. For those who want to see the highlights of Madagascar without the effort, I’d suggest the following.

• Fly to Toliara and stay in Ifaty for a few days. Get the hotel to organise the wildlife tours and other activities.
• Fly to Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin) and organise a transfer to Berenty for a few days (~4 hours). The resort and nature reserve of Berenty will organise activities and you can see an enormous amount of wildlife around your rooms and in the Gallery Forest.
• Fly to Nosy Be. Stay in resort accommodation. Visit lemurs on Nosy Komba, enjoy the beaches and snorkelling.

You could spend a hurried week or a relaxed fortnight doing this.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Long-tailed Ground Roller, Reniala Forest Reserve

Writing

Because of my back injury, I began writing after receiving Ben Chapple’s report on the trip. Consequently, especially because it is very well-written, I have used the report shamelessly for my descriptions above. Perplexity AI has also been moderately helpful. Ben’s Tour Report is available here.

Photography

On an adventure trip there are always shots you miss out on (especially with the Beast). Thank you Sandra Neely for generously allowing me to use your wonderful photos to cover the gaps in my photography.

Thank you Pam Taylor for generously allowing me to use your map of our trip. Pam Taylor was our dragonfly expert on the tour and is a Trustee and Convenor of the Dragonfly Conservation Group of the British Dragonfly Society.

Also thank you Ben Chapple for your offer of sharing your photographs and for the iPhone Photo of the team at the Isalo Sunset viewpoint.

I bought my Lumix FZ60 in 2019 for a trip to America (See A Lark in Africa for more detail). I call it the Beast! I agonised over buying a new bridge camera for Madagascar, but finally decided that nothing else was that much better. I’m too old, I thought, to carry my Canon 5D and a large lens with me overseas. However, I admired Trevor on our trip, who lugged a great deal of expensive camera gear around with him and I would love to see his photos someday.

Streaming Videos

David Attenborough did a marvellous 4-part BBC series entitled Madagascar in early 2011 (Available for hire on Youtube). More recently Joanna Lumley did an episode on Madagascar in her Spice Trail Adventure in 2023. Both provide an excellent introduction to the island and are well worth seeing.

Tribal groups and Mada Magazine

Mada Magazine provides a good overview of Madagascar and is a good source of information in general, not only for tribal groups.

Specific Keywords: RH MacArthur, EO Wilson, The Theory of Island Biogeography, Maromokotro, Bright-eyed Frog, Milne-Edwards Sifaka, Ring-tailed Vontsira, Parson’s Chameleon, Red-bellied Lemur, Jewel Chameleon, Madagascar Snipe, Madagascar Harrier, Madagascar Buzzard, Red-fronted Brown Lemur, Rufous Mouse Lemur, Big-nosed Chameleon, Satanic Leaf-tailed Gecko, Greater Bamboo Lemur, Hook-billed Vanga, Tylas Vanga, Crossley’s Vanga, Pollen’s Vanga, Pitta-like Ground Roller, Scaly Ground Roller, Red-bellied Lemur, Giraffe-necked Weevil, Small-toothed Sportive Lemur, Madagascar Cuckooshrike, Grey-crowned Tetraka, Madagascar Brush Warbler, Pandanus Frog, Blue-legged Chameleon, Major’s Bent-winged Bat, Oustale, t’s Chameleon, Jardin du Roy Hotel, Broad-billed Roller, Madagascar Coucal, Olive Bee-eaterSnout Bug, Net-throwing Spider, Silver Widow Dragonfly, Madagascar Emperor Dragonfly, Torotoroka Scops Owl, White-browed Owl, Madagascar Long-eared Owl, Benson’s Forest Rock Thrush, Madagascar Hoopoe, Grey-headed Lovebird, Madagascar Turtle Dove, Dumeril’s Madagascar Swift, Le Paradisier Hotel, Frances’s Sparrowhawk, Zombitse Sportive Lemur, Appert’s Tetraka, Blue Vanga, Coquerel’s Coua, Crested Coua, Giant Coua, Cuckoo Roller, Sakalava Weaver, Madagascar Mannikin, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Grey-brown Mouse Lemur, Warty Chameleon,Madagascar Nightjar, Three-eyed Lizard, Cuvier’s Madagascar Swift, Whimbrel, Common Ringed Plover, Subdesert Mesite, Long-tailed Ground Roller, Thamnornis Warbler, Chabert’s Vanga, Subdesert Brush Warbler, Stripe-throated Jery, Standing’s Day Gecko, Petter’s Sportive Lemur, Antimena Chameleon, Madagascar Ground Gecko, Dumeril’s Ground Boa, Madagascar Hissing Cockroach, Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec.

Published in Canberra