Madagascar Wildlife Adventure 2

 Featured Image: Tails-aloft beside the Berenty Spiny Forest, Berenty Private Reserve

  Breadtag Sagas ©: Author Tony, 23 March 2025

Madagascar Wildlife Adventure: Part 2

Ankarafantsika, Berenty, Andasibe-Mantadia

Verreaux’s Sifaka, Berenty Spiny Forest

Why go to Madagascar? Look at any map of Africa and the eye is drawn to down south to this big island off the east coast, Madagascar. What is it?

Geographic isolation and size are the key to an amazing variety of habitat and wildlife not found anywhere else. Lemurs, chameleons and endemic birds, combined with unusual endemic plants are one’s first impression.

Madagascar is also the major producer of the spice Vanilla.

White-faced Whistling-Duck on Lac Ravelobe, Ankarafantsika National Park

Main Points

• Introduction to the Basics
• Our Trip in Outline
• Destinations, Parks and Reserves, Wildlife
  • Ankarafantsika National Park
  • Berenty Private Reserve
  • Andasibe-Mantadia National Park
• Summary

Petter’s Sportive Lemur, Berenty Spiny Forest

1 Basic Information

For more detail and basic information on island biogeograpy, physical geography, environment and history of Madagascar consult Part 1.

2 Trip Overview

‘Berenty’ Brown Hybrid Lemur in Tree

The core of our adventure was a 23-day tour with Naturetrek UK. We were fortunate to have Ben Chapple and Claude Rambeloson, as our tour leaders. Their in-depth knowledge made the trip unforgettable.

Similarly, as with most bird and nature tours, we had local guides at each National Park and Reserve. They were all excellent and are mandatory in Madagascar, which ensures to some extent that money flows back into the communities involved.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Dancing Verreaux’s Sifaka, Berenty Private Reserve

Our group of twelve plus two was a mix of birders, photographers, and biologists. We had dragonfly and butterfly aficionados, a “snake person”, a botanist, and others with a general passion for wildlife. This diverse range of expertise added to the learning and nuance of the tour.

Refer again to Part 1 for more details.

Ringtail in flight at Berenty

Part 1 covered the first part of our trip to Ranamofana, Isalo and Ifaty and some parks and reserves in between. This consisted of a the road trip down the island from the capital Tana to Ifaty in the southwest.

Part 2 covers three major parks and reserves: Ankarafantsika, Berenty and Andasibe-Mantadia.

3 Location

Madagascar Map of our trip prepared by Pam Taylor

The map shows the main places mentioned that we visited.

A Series of Flights and Relatively Short Road Trips

4 Tana to Mahajanga and Ankarafantsika National Park (Days 11 to 14)

4.1 The Trip

We flew to Mahajanga via Tana, arriving in the evening. Mahajanga is on the west coast well north of Tana. The next morning, we set off early for a four-hour drive to Ankarafantsika National Park. Olga and Jiovani, our local guides for three days, were fantastic.

Vereaux’s Sifaka, Berenty

It was very hot, and our accommodation at the Blue Vanga Lodge was rustic, located within a local community and township. Initially shocked, we soon grew fond of the setup, which was the best available in the area.

We did an afternoon and evening walk. Next day, we had three walks starting at 4:45 am, followed by a cruise on Lac Ravelobe. Before departing, we took a short walk in the park before breakfast at the park entrance. We left at 8 am for Mahajanga and the afternoon flight to Tana.

Broad-tailed Plated Lizard, Ankarafantsika National Park

4.2 The Reserve

Ankarafantsika National Park

Ankarafantsika National Park provides the most accessible example of western deciduous forest. The land is relatively flat with a clear network of paths. October/November is the hottest time of year.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Pigmy Kingfisher, Ankarafantsika National Park

Our three target bird species (all seen) are endemic and only found here, or hard to see elsewhere. The park is also home to eight species of lemur, of which the rare mongoose lemur is observed almost exclusively here, but not that regularly.

4.3 The Wildlife

Photo by Sandra Neely, Paradise Flycatcher, Ankarafantsika National Park

On our first afternoon, we spotted a pair of White-breasted Mesite, a troop of Common Brown Lemurs, a pair of Western Woolly Lemurs, and a Rhinoceros Chameleon. In the evening, we encountered a Milne-Edwards’s Sportive Lemur and had good views of a Grey Mouse Lemur. We also saw a Leaf-tailed Gecko, a Western Madagascar Tree Boa, and a calling Torotoroka Scops Owl.

Milne-Edward’s Sportive Lemur, Ankarafantsika National Park

Our birding experience was notable for several highlights. One key sighting was Schlegel’s Asity, which required considerable effort but was rewarding, especially since other birding groups had been unsuccessful on preceding days. A twitcher’s life or those ticking off birds for a life list can be frustrating. I think those in our group were more interested in seeing new birds behaving, even common ones.

Madagascar Fish Eagle on Lac Ravelobe, Ankarafantsika National Park

During the boat trip on Lac Ravelobe, we saw a spectacular Madagascar Fish Eagle cooling itself. This was our main target. A pair are based on the lake and are the most accessible fish eagles in Madagascar. There are fewer than 100 pairs left. We also saw a Madagascar Jacana feeding openly, another rare sighting. The Madagascar Jacana is another endemic species threatened by habitat loss. Other water birds included Purple and Madagascar Pond Herons.

Madagascar Jacana on Lac Ravelobe, Ankarafantsika National Park

Don’t envisage a comfortable cruiser, this was a dodgy small barge with an outboard and would only hold half the number envisaged. We were lucky to be shunted onto the first outing, as the outboard broke down. Fortunately, the others who wanted to were able to participate next morning.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Brown Lemur interacting with Coquerel’s Sifaka, Ankarafantsika National Park

While searching for Schlegel’s Asity, we observed the Madagascar Green Pigeon and Blue Vanga. More notable were the Broad-tailed Plated Lizard and a pair of White-throated Rail. We even saw a Mauritian Tomb Bat close-up on our return, under the eaves of one of our rooms.

Mauritian Tomb Bat Blue Vanga Lodge, Ambato Boina Village, Ankarafantsika

Our second walk featured point-blank views of Sickle-billed Vangas, Coquerel’s and Red-capped Couas, and the vivid green Koch’s Day Gecko. We encountered a relaxed group of Coquerel’s Sifakas, Common Brown Lemurs, and, by chance, two critically endangered Mongoose Lemur.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Sickle-billed Vanga, Ankarafantsika National Park

In the evening, we found the endangered Gunther’s Leaf-tailed Gecko and a pair of Golden-brown Mouse Lemurs. We also spotted a Western Tufted-tailed Rat in a disused well.

Coquerel’s Sifaka, Ankarafantsika National Park

Ben had a relatively high end thermal scope for night vision. Using this he could pin-point the rat, when it emerged from under objects. Thus we all had a good look at it over several minutes. Its presence at the bottom of an old well was mysterious. But, we didn’t think it was trapped there as the cement pipe was fractured underneath and would have been accessible from the ground.

Photo Ben Chapple, Frances’s Sparrowhawk, Ankarafantsika

On our final morning, we saw a male Van Dam’s Vanga briefly, while the female was more obliging, feeding in the lower canopy. A dramatic moment occurred when a Frances’s Sparrowhawk attempted to grab the female, but was unsuccessful fortunately.

5 Tana to Taolagnaro and Berenty Private Reserve (Days 15 to 18)

Ring-tail Lemurs at the Entrance to Berenty, Berenty Private Reserve

5.1 The Trip

We flew to Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin) and enjoyed a scenic four-hour drive to Berenty, despite some roadworks.

5.2 The Reserve

Berenty Private Reserve

Sisal Fields and Landscape at Berenty

Berenty Private Reserve, Madagascar’s most well-known, is nestled among vast sisal plantations. It’s famous for its pristine southern spiny forest pockets. Recent rainfall had turned the spiny forest unusually green, with octopus trees’ new leaves providing ample food for sifakas and Ring-tailed Lemurs.

Vereaux’s Sifaka, Berenty

Southern Madagascar’s spiny forests have the island’s highest percentage of indigenous plants, remarkable in a country known for endemic flora and fauna.

Berenty Reserve safeguards about 250 hectares of gallery forests along the Mandrare River and adjacent spiny forest areas. Established in 1936 by the de Heaulme family, it originated from a French government concession to exploit 6000 ha for sisal cultivation.

iPhone Photo, Green Octopus Trees and Group, Berenty Spiny Forest

Berenty offers luxury accommodation (within the limits of isolation) in beautiful surrounds. Visitors can easily walk among friendly lemurs in the gallery and spiny forests. It’s also one of the few reserves where one can wander freely without a guide.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Warty Chameleon, Berenty Private Reserve

5.3 The Wildlife

Berenty Reserve offers abundant wildlife viewing opportunities, with Ring-tailed Lemurs, Verreaux’s Sifakas, and hybrid ‘Berenty’ Brown Lemurs frequently seen around the accommodation. The brown lemurs are hybrids, a result of two species mistakenly introduced as one in the past.

White-browed Owl, Berenty near the Mandrare River

A captivating sight is a troop of Verreaux’s Sifakas ‘dancing’ acrobatically across open spaces, a unique method of rapid ground movement. We observed this behaviour multiple times, including a midday performance near the entrance — like ballerinas dancing across a stage, the lemurs seemed to collapse from artistic exhaustion upon reaching their destination.

Petter’s Sportive Lemur, Berenty Gallery Forest

Our first short evening short walk revealed a Petter’s Sportive Lemur, Madagascar Flying Foxes in a fig tree, a Grey Mouse Lemur, and a Warty Chameleon.

Close Up of Sakalava Velvet Gekko, Berenty Spiny Forest

Early morning, we found Madagascar Sandgrouse in nearby fields. A spiny forest walk showcased reptiles: Madagascar Golden-spotted Skink, Spiny Forest Dwarf Gecko, Sakalava Velvet Gecko, and a Madagascar Spider Tortoise. All Madagascar’s tortoises are becoming rare because of habitat loss and collection for the pet trade.

‘Berenty’ Brown Hybrid Lemur interacting

Breakfast was interrupted by the discovery by one of the staff of a large Dumeril’s Ground Boa, a main lemur predator, in a water tank. A mid-morning stroll revealed more lemurs, Giant Coua, and a male Warty Chameleon. Afternoon heat brought lemurs to our verandahs’ shade.

iPhone Photo, Dumeril’s Ground Boa In Water Tank, Berenty

Late afternoon, we saw an almost entirely black (melanistic phase) Petter’s Sportive Lemur and Helmeted Guineafowl on the sands by the Mandrare River. We also observed a White-browed Owl waking up. A night walk in the spiny forest revealed a cooperative Grey-brown Mouse Lemur, which displayed its elongated, cinnamon-dyed tail.

Melanistic form of Petter’s Sportive Lemur, Berenty Gallery Forest

The next morning pre-breakfast, we visited a more distant, pristine spiny forest patch, seeing Ring-tailed Lemurs, unusually green, octopus trees because of recent rain, Grey-headed Lovebird, Thicktailed Day Gecko, Madagascar Nightjar, and more Spider Tortoises.

Madagascar Spider Tortoise, Berenty Spiny Forest

Our final walk, before lunch and departure uncovered White-bellied Free-tailed Bats and another Dumeril’s Ground Boa in the derelict parts of the museum building.

6 Tana to Andasibe (Days 19 to 22)

6.1 The Trip

The drive to Andasibe was one of the better ones on a decent tar road leading to the coast. We stayed at the pleasant, upscale Mantadia Lodge, possibly the best accommodation of our trip. We visited four areas within the combined National Park.

6.2 The Reserve

Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

Andasibe-Mantadia National Park combines the Analamozaotra Special Reserve with the more recently created Mantadia National Park. Analamozaotra is an 810-hectare mid-altitude rainforest fragment, while Mantadia spans 10,000 hectares of more pristine lowland and mid-altitude rainforest. 

The park is famous for its Indri population, which we frequently encountered and heard.

Indri, VOIMMMA Community Reserve, Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

6.3 The Wildlife

6.3.1 Mantadia Lodge

Upon arrival, we encountered a large Short-horned Chameleon perched in a tree at the car park’s edge.

After lunch and a brief rest, Denise discovered a Lowland Streaked Tenrec in one of the room’s gardens. Our guide, Ben, described it as one of Madagascar’s most peculiar mammals, resembling a black-and-yellow electric hedgehog. This unique creature possesses rigid back spines, forming a ‘stridulating organ’ which it vigorously rubs together to communicate with family members.

Lowland Streaked Tenrec

Stridulation, the act of rubbing body parts together to produce sound, is common among insects like crickets and grasshoppers, and even some snakes. In Australia, while cicadas’ summer buzzing is mostly not stridulation, some species do employ this technique.

Underwater, water boatmen and backswimmers (often found in swimming pools) use stridulation for attraction, detectable only with submerged microphones. In past my past zoological studies, condoms were used to protect these microphones.

Remarkably, the two species of streaked tenrecs are the only known mammals to use stridulation for communication.

Eastern Woolly Lemur, VOIMMMA Community Reserve

6.3.2 VOIMMA Community Reserve

We proceeded to the VOIMMA Community Reserve in mid-afternoon and evening, meeting our local guides, Nestor and Tantely. This reserve, whose name stands for “Local people love the forest” in Malagasy, is a small but significant area of primary rainforest managed by the local community.

Parson’s Chameleon, VOIMMMA Community Reserve

Shortly after arrival, we encountered a day-roosting Eastern Woolly Lemur and had mixed sightings of Red-fronted Coua and Velvet Asity. The highlight was our first experience with Indri, Madagascar’s largest living lemur. After some manoeuvering, we found ourselves at eye-level with these magnificent primates as they foraged and even engaged in a brief chorus of their haunting song.

Close Up of Camouflaged Mossy Leaf-tailed Gekko, VOIMMMA Community Reserve

Our exploration continued with reptile sightings: a splendid green-and-red Parson’s Chameleon and a Mossy Leaf-tailed Gecko, the latter almost perfectly camouflaged against its tree-bark background. We also observed a Crossley’s Dwarf Lemur, along with roosting Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher and three Spectacled Tetraka.

Three Spectacled Tetraka Sleeping, VOIMMMA Community Reserve

The expedition culminated with a tiny Brown Leaf Chameleon (Brookesia) and our first amphibians since Ranomafana: Madagascar and Green Bright-eyed Frogs. The Madagascar Bright-eyed Frog (Boophis madagascariensis) captivates less with colourful colours than with its impressive body size (6-10 cm). It can be found in various reserves in the area, including VOIMMA.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Crossley’s Dwarf Lemur, VOIMMA Community Reserve

6.3.3 Analamazaotra

Around 6:30 am on our first morning, we ventured into the Analamazaotra section of Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, the main tourism hub. We encountered families of Indri, Madagascar’s largest living lemur, and were treated to even more impressive musical performances of their haunting calls (see recording below in Further Information). We also came across a troop of Common Brown Lemurs, easily recognisable by their reddish-brown coats and bright orange eyes.

Diademed Sifaka, Analamazaotra section of Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

Our local guides worked diligently, and by mid-morning, we found ourselves standing beneath a family group of Diademed Sifakas. Initially, their flame-gold limbs were obscured by high branches, but our patience was rewarded when a mother and baby descended to lower levels. We marvelled at the ease with which they bounded from tree to tree, following them for some time.

Birdwatching in rainforests can be hit-or-miss, but we were fortunate to encounter a mixed-species feeding flock containing Tylas Vanga, Red-tailed Vanga, and most excitingly, Nuthatch Vanga. The latter, an example of convergent evolution, was once thought to be a true nuthatch until relatively recently.

Photo Ben Chapple, Madagascar Crested Ibis, Analamazaotra

Another highlight was a fleeting, yet exhilarating glimpse of a pair of Madagascar Crested Ibis, a rare and elusive species endemic to the island. More cooperative were several treetop Madagascar Blue Pigeons, their iridescent plumage shimmering. We also encountered a Blue Coua and an Eastern Madagascar Tree Boa basking amongst the leaves above a small bridge.

As we were preparing to leave the forest, our guide Ben picked up some rapid movement deep in the undergrowth, which was a troop of Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemurs, the smallest of Madagascar’s diurnal lemurs. These agile lemurs initially managed to evade us, but after a challenging cross-country pursuit our perseverance was rewarded with excellent views for all.

Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur, Analamazaotra section of Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

In a classic twist of irony, mere minutes later, we stumbled upon another troop of young bamboo lemurs contentedly feeding at eye level in a hedge, barely an arm’s length from the path out, offering us an unobstructed view of their charming antics and behaviour (see video below in Further Information).

We returned to the reserve mid-afternoon, mindful of its 4 pm closing time. We spent an inordinate amount of time pursuing, but not seeing, a calling Madagascar Flufftail, which are notoriously difficult to spot.

Strolling along the main road back towards the village, we spotted Nelicourvi Weaver, Madagascar Brush Warbler, and more Madagascar Blue Pigeons. Suddenly, our guide Nestor dived into roadside bushes, leading us face-to-face with a beautiful Rainforest Scops Owl.

Stream and Mantadia Forest, Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

6.3.4 Mantadia Forests

Our last full wildlife seeking day in Madagascar began with a very rough 4-WD journey to pristine Mantadia Forests. These ancient jungles, characterised by towering buttress-rooted giants and an undisturbed canopy were unique to our experience. The first sighting of the day was an Eastern Red Forest Rat, which, although fleeting, provided a clear view. We had hoped to catch a glimpse of the Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur and Short-legged Ground Roller, species that thrive only in the best-preserved forest tracts. Unfortunately, they remained elusive, with only the lemurs’ calls heard briefly.

A Flurry of White Butterflies, Mantadia Forest

As we hiked through these stunning forests, we encountered a variety of wildlife. A playful baby Red-bellied Lemur was a delightful sight, and a troop of Common Brown Lemurs seemed to follow us along the trail. The haunting call of a single Indri beside the road resonated across the valley.

Striped or Lined Day Gekko, Mantadia Forest

We also spotted a Lined Day Gecko, Pandanus and Madagascar Jumping Frogs, and the stunning Baron’s Mantella, a species reminiscent of South American poison dart frogs. The forest was also alive with butterflies and insects.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Baron’s Mantella, Mantadia Forests

6.3.5 Maromizaha Forest

Later that day, part of the group embarked on a final excursion to Maromizaha Forest, a spectacular higher altitude reserve. Although I couldn’t join for health reasons, the second time I missed a walk, the descriptions were exciting.

Photo Ben Chapple, Common Sunbird Asity, Maromizaha Forest, Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

At the parking area, they saw a Madagascar Buzzard, Madagascar Stonechat, and the only Madagascar Spinetail of the tour. As they ventured into the forest, reptiles and insects took center stage. They spotted their only Perinet Chameleon of the tour, a marvellous moss-mimicking stick insect (Antongilia laciniata), and a carpet of fluffy caterpillars on a tree trunk.

iPhoto Denise, moss-mimicking stick insect, Maromizaha Forest

The evening excursion proved to be the most exciting nocturnal adventure of the tour. At the viewpoint a pair of Forest Rock Thrushes took turns dust-bathing on the path.

As they descended in the dark, they had close views of an Eastern Woolly Lemur, followed by Crossley’s Dwarf and Goodman’s Mouse Lemurs. They also encountered another Analamazaotra Madagascar Frog and a verdant male Yellow-green Chameleon. The highlight of the night was the unexpected sighting of a Common Sunbird Asity, with its shocking blue-purple face—a truly lucky encounter.

Photo by Sandra Neely, Hairy-eared Dwarf Lemur, Maromizaha Forest

Their luck became even more extraordinary a few minutes later when they noticed an unusual eyeshine that resembled a mouse lemur but looked weirder. To their astonishment, it was a Hairy-eared Dwarf Lemur (Allocebus trichotis). Neither a dwarf nor mouse lemur, it is the only member of its genus. The Hairy-eared Dwarf Lemur is one of the rarest lemurs and was considered extinct for decades before its rediscovery in 1989. This sighting was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for Ben. Claude had seen it only twice in twenty years. Everyone spent glorious minutes observing this special animal, even witnessing it catch a large moth. A fitting end to a grand tour!

Photo by Sandra Neely, Hairy-eared Dwarf Lemur eating moth, Maromizaha Forest

6.3.6 Analamazaotra

The following morning, we had a final visit to Analamazaotra, where we enjoyed excellent views of White-throated Rails with their young chick. Common Brown Lemurs and Diademed Sifakas were also seen, with superb views of the sifakas. Although Nestor’s efforts to spot a roosting Collared Nightjar were unsuccessful, we did see a group of Madagascar Wood Rails crossing the path. This final morning in the forest was a serene conclusion to our time in Madagascar.

White-throated Rail, Analamazaotra section of Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

6.4 The trip

We packed our bags had breakfast and departed for Tana. We spent our last evening in the capital and headed to the airport next day departing in different directions.

7 Summary

A tally of what we saw, though insufficient, gives some idea of the range of animals encountered on the Madagascar adventure tour in Part 1 and Part 2.

Malagasy Kestrel Calling at Sunset, Berenty Gallery Forest

We saw 131 bird species in total, more endemic than non-endemic.

I didn’t see them all (but I did see most of the key ones, except on the two walks I missed). I also didn’t see all of the other animals listed but I did see most of them. I saw all the lemurs, but not the rarest — the Hairy-eared Dwarf Lemur.

We observed 26 lemur species. Although, telling one mouse lemur, dwarf lemur or sportive lemur from another requires considerable expertise. The day active lemurs: such as the Indri, sifakas, brown, woolly and mongoose are easier to tell apart. We also observed more behaviour and activities in the day active lemurs.

Ring-tailed Lemurs in the Spiny Forest Berenty

Among the special, unusual or rare lemurs we saw, as mentioned in Part 1 and the current Part2, were:

Part 1

• The last Golden (now Greater) Bamboo Lemur in Ranomafana National Park.
• Milne-Edwards’s Sifaka, the critically endangered third largest lemur, Ranomafana.
• The Small-toothed Sportive Lemur, Ranomafana.
• The rare Zombitse Sportive Lemur in Zombitse National Park.
• The gorgeous Grey-brown Mouse Lemur at Arboretum d’Antsokay.
• A rare sighting of Petter’s (Ifaty) Sportive Lemur, which may be renamed Ifaty Sportive Lemur in Mosa Reserve, Ifaty.

Five ‘Berenty’ Brown Hybrid Lemurs Drinking at Dusk

Part 2

• Western Woolly Lemur at Ankarafantsika National Park.
• The Golden-brown Mouse Lemur, Ankarafantsika.
• The critically endangered Mongoose Lemur, Ankarafantsika.
• Indri at Andasibe-Mantadia National Park.
• Crossley’s Dwarf Lemur, VOIMMA community reserve, Andasibe-Mantadia.
• Diademed Sifaka, Analamazaotra, Andasibe-Mantadia.
• Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur, Analamazaotra, Andasibe-Mantadia.
• The astonishingly rare Hairy-eared Dwarf Lemur, Maromizaha Forest, Andasibe-Mantadia.
  

  Vereaux’s Siffaka, Berenty Gallery Forest

We saw two species of tenrec, four species of rat — three of them endemic, the Malagasy Flying fox and five species of microchiroptera (small insect eating bats). We also saw a Ring-tailed Vontsira (mongoose-like but unrelated).

Among the reptiles we observed 13 species of chameleon, 15 species of gekkoes and five species of other interesting lizards. We also saw six species of snake, half of them boas and six species of frog.

Among the invertebrates we saw 10 butterfly species, 22 species of dragonflies and damsel flies. We recorded 9 other species of invertebrates, but saw and mentioned many more equally fascinating ones.

All in all this is a lot of wildlife in a fascinating journey.

Troop of Vereaux’s Siffaka waiting out the heat on a Guest’s Verandah, Berenty

Key Words: Madagascar, travel, Africa, nature, environment, wildlife, geographic isolation, island biogeography, adaptive radiation, lemur, chameleon, birding, birds, endemic, plants, Ring-tail Lemur, dragonfly, gekko, frog, rainforest, arid zone, spiny forest, western deciduous forest, biodiversity hotspot, Naturetrek, Antananarivo, raptor, mouse lemur, brown lemur, sifaka, dancing lemur, dwarf lemur, sportive lemur, vanga, Mahajanga, Ankarafantsika National Park, Berenty Private Reserve, Andasibe-Mantadia National Park, VOIMMMA Community Reserve, Analamazaotra, Mantadia Forests, Maromizaha Forest, Lac Ravelobe, Schlegel’s Asity, Van Dam’s Vanga, Indri, Lowland Streaked Tenrec, camouflage, Mossy Leaf-tailed Gekko, Diademed Sifaka,  Hairy-eared Dwarf Lemur, microchiroptera.

Further Information

iPhone Video

I’ve included this iPhone video to give you a feel for a wild young Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur doing its thing, apparently oblivious to the humans nearby. To return from YouTube hit the back arrow at the top of your screen.

Young Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur feeding in a hedge in Analamazaotra section of Andasibe-Mantadia National Park.

iPhone Audio

Indri Calling

I’ve included this iPhone sound recording to provide an example of the weird and wonderful family calling behaviour of the Indri. Try to imagine how it might sound a little way off or even across the valley in slightly misty Malagasy rainforest.

Sifakas Dancing

For a video of the dancing sifakas at Berenty, just type dancing lemurs or dancing sifakas into Tik Tok. The first one I found by Nomad Naturalists, Nov 2023 is well-shot with pleasant background music.

Photography

On an adventure trip there are always shots you miss out on (especially with the Beast). Thank you Sandra Neely and Ben Chapple our guide and Denise for generously allowing me to use your wonderful photos to cover the gaps in my photography.

Thank you Pam Taylor for generously allowing me to use your map of our trip. Pam Taylor was our dragonfly expert on the tour and is a Trustee and Convenor of the Dragonfly Conservation Group of the British Dragonfly Society.

Tour Information

We travelled with Naturetrek UK on their Best of Madagascar Tour and found the tour and the two trip leaders Ben Chapple, Claude Rambeloson and the whole Naturetrek team to be extremely accommodating and professional. Naturetrek are an excellent international wildlife tour company and offer wildlife tours all around the world.

Orb Spinners, Toalagnaro, Fort-Dauphin

A Gentler Approach to Madagascar

Since returning from Madagascar, we’ve found some friends have been turned off by the terrible roads and the arduousness in accessing the wildlife. This doesn’t have to be.

A more comfortable option for those opposed to adventure travel, includes flights to three destinations with only minor road travel. For those who want to see the highlights of Madagascar without the effort, I’d suggest the following.

• Fly to Toliara and stay in Ifaty for a few days. Get the hotel to organise the wildlife tours and other activities.
• Fly to Taolagnaro (Fort Dauphin) and organise a transfer to Berenty for a few days (~4 hours). The resort and nature reserve of Berenty will organise activities and you can see an enormous amount of wildlife around your rooms and in the Gallery Forest.
• Fly to Nosy Be. Stay in resort accommodation. Visit lemurs on Nosy Komba, enjoy the beaches and snorkelling.

You could spend a hurried week or a relaxed fortnight doing this.

More Keywords: Madagascar Fish Eagle, Madagascar Jacana, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, Brown Leaf Chameleon, Nuthatch Vanga, Madagascar Flufftail, Baron’s Mantella, Common Sunbird Asity, Crossley’s Dwarf Lemur, Golden-brown Mouse Lemur, Hook-billed Vanga, Verreaux’s Sifaka, Berenty Spiny Forest, White-faced Whistling-Duck, Petter’s Sportive Lemur, ‘Berenty’ Brown Hybrid Lemur, White-breasted Mesite, Common Brown Lemur, Western Woolly Lemur, and a Rhinoceros Chameleon, Milne-Edwards’s Sportive Lemur, Grey Mouse Lemur, Leaf-tailed Gecko, Western Madagascar Tree Boa, Torotoroka Scops Owl, Madagascar Fish Eagle, Madagascar Jacana, Purple Pond Heron, Madagascar Pond Heron, Madagascar Green Pigeon, Blue Vanga, Broad-tailed Plated Lizard, White-throated Rail, Mauritian Tomb Bat, Sickle-billed Vanga, Coquerel’s Coua, Red-capped Coua, Koch’s Day Gecko, Coquerel’s Sifaka, Mongoose Lemur, Gunther’s Leaf-tailed Gecko, Western Tufted-tailed Rat, Frances’s Sparrowhawk,  Octopus Tree, White-browed Owl, Madagascar Flying Fox, Warty Chameleon, Madagascar Golden-spotted Skink, Spiny Forest Dwarf Gecko, Sakalava Velvet Gecko, Madagascar Spider Tortoise,Dumeril’s Ground Boa, Giant Coua, melanistic phase Petter’s Sportive Lemur, Helmeted Guineafowl, Mandrare River, Grey-brown Mouse Lemur, Grey-headed Lovebird, Thicktailed Day Gecko, Madagascar Nightjar, White-bellied Free-tailed Bat, Short-horned Chameleon, Eastern Woolly Lemur, Red-fronted Coua, Velvet Asity, Spectacled Tetraka, Brown Leaf Chameleon, Tylas Vanga, Red-tailed Vanga, Nuthatch Vanga, Madagascar Crested Ibis, Blue Coua, Eastern Madagascar Tree Boa, Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur, Madagascar Flufftail, Nelicourvi Weaver, Madagascar Brush Warbler, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Rainforest Scops Owl, Eastern Red Forest Rat, Red-bellied Lemur, Lined Day Gecko, Pandanus Jumping Frog, Madagascar Jumping Frog, Baron’s Mantella, Madagascar Stonechat, Madagascar Spinetail, Perinet Chameleon, moss-mimicking stick insect, Forest Rock Thrush, Analamazaotra Madagascar Frog, Yellow-green Chameleon, Common Sunbird Asity, Madagascar Buzzard, Madagascar Wood Rail

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